Presser foot



Sept. 8, 19?..5.- 1,552,405

W. A. ADAMS PREssER FooT Filed sept. 4, 1924 atroz mg Patented. Sept. 8,1925.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

WALTER A. ADAMS, 0I ROCHESTER, NEW VYORK, ASSIGNOB .T0 LEWIS 'INVISIBLEI STITCH IAGHINI COHPANY, OF ST. LOUIS, IISSOUBI, .L CORPORATION 0FDELA- A mesma goor.

Appunti mea september 4, 19u. semi n. nasse.

To all lwhom z't may concern.'

Be it known that WALTER A. ADAMS, a citizen of the United States,residing at Rochester, in the county of Monroe and State of New York,has invented certain new and useful Improvements in Presser 'Feetg ofwhich the following is a specification.

This invention relates to new and useful improvements in presser feetfor sewing machines generally, although more particularly to presserfeet for use in connection wit blind stitch sewing machines adapted forluse in felling operations, the preferable type of sewing mac ine beingillustrated in the co-pending application of Charles W. Mueller forimprovements in stitch formin mechanism, led February 14, Y1924, SeriaNo. 692,696.

In felling operations, such as for instance, on the bottoms of coats,trousers or the like, the super-imposed layer, that is, the fell is veroften previously bound by a binding whic is secured to the marginal edgeportion by a line of through-andthrough stitches. In blind stitching thefell to the base fabric, it is desirable to position the needle thread,which connects the penetrant needle thread -loops, under the mar-4 ginaledge portion of the binding, whereby the latter will conceal said needlethread.

The principal object of my invention is, therefore, to rovide a presserfoot with a device for liftmg the marginal edge portion of the bindingwhereby the needle of the blind stitch machine will penetrate thesuperimposed layer or fell at apoint directly adjacent thethrough-and-through stitches which secures the binding to said fellwhereby the marginal edge portion of said binding will subsequentlycover the needle thread lying between the needle thread loops formingthe blind stitches.

Another object of the invention is to provide a presser foot with anedge guide arfell will be elevated suliiciently to rmit the'needle topass through the fell and into and out ofthe upper face of the baselayer pihout re-entering the edge portion of the Another object'of theinvention is to provide anedge'guide for the purpose set forth which 1sadJustable to accommodate bindmgs of different-widths Without disturbingthe relationship between the elevated edge portion of the fell and theneedle of the sewing machine. l

A still further object of the invention is to provide a combined needleguide and edge-lifting device from a'single ieee of metal and supportingthe same on t e presser fo'ot in such a manner as to insure the needleguide always being in proper position relative to the lifting device.

" With the above and other objects in view whichwill more readily appearas the nature of the vinvention is better understood, the same consistsin the novel construction, combination and arrangement of partshereinafter more fully described, illustrated and claimed.

In the accom anying drawings which show one form o my invention,

Figure 1 is a plan view of a presser foot showing the application of myinvention,

Figure 2 is a similar view but without the fabric,

.Figure 3 is a bottom plan view of the presser foot,

Figure 4 is an enlarged detail sectional view taken on the line 4 4 ofFigure 3,

Figure 5 is an enlarged detail sectional view taken on the line 5 5 ofFigure 2,

Figure 6 isl an enlarged perspective view o f my combined needle guideand lifting dev1ce,

Figure 7 is a view showing in erspective the various partsv forming t eedge guide, and

Figure 8 is an enlarged sectional View on line 8 8 of Figure 1 sho-wingmore or less diagrammatically, the relative positions of the parts.

Like reference numerals designate corresponding parts throughout theseveral figures of the drawings.

In the accompanying drawings the presser foot 5 includes a body portion6 having attaching ears 7-7 integral therewith. Extending rearwardlyfrom the front edge 8 of the presser foot is a centrally disposed fabricguiding slot 9, the inner portion thereof being angularly offset asatl() to provide an outlet for the edge portion of the fell. A feedingmechanism, not shown, feeds the work rearwardl as indicated vby thearrow in Figure 1, an consequently the line of feed is coincident withthe major axis of the fabric guiding slot 9. This slot 9 forms resultantright and left ,forwardly extending arms 11 and 12 respectively. .Inblind stitch machines for doing this class of work, the needle 13oscillates about a horizontal axis located above the inner end portion10 of the slot 9, the axis being disposed at an angle to the line offeed. Consequently, the needle oscillates ina vertical plane disposed atan angle to the lineof feed, this angle being shown in the drawings asat 45. It will however be understood that ,the needle may be oscillatedat any other desired `angle relative to the line of feed.

In felling the bottoms of coats, trousers or the like, the edge portionof the fabric F is first covered by the binding o-r piping 15 which issecured to thefabric by a line of through-and-through stitches 16, andthen this fabric is folded to form a resultant base layer 17 and asuperimposed layer or fell 18.

layer or fell 18 tothe base layer 17 in such a manner that the needlewill cause its penetrant needle thread loops to enter the superimposedlayer or fell 18 under the marginal portion ofthe binding 15 and thenceinto and out of the upper face of the base layer 17. f In` this type ofblind stitch machine, I preferably employ. a vertical oscillatoryplunger 19 which is timed to make one .complete reciprocation for eachoscillation of the needle, the high points of said plungerreciprocations being preferably raised and lowered alternately so as toalternately elevate the base layer into the path of the needle 13 duringevery other oscillation thereof. Bymeans of this plunger it will beobserved that the base layer is engaged by the needle thread duringevery other oscillation of the needle. This avoids puckering of the baselayer on the fair side thereof which would be the case if the needleengaged said base layer during each oscillation thereof.

In order to insure the needle entering the superimposed layer or fell 18under the marginal edge portionof the binding 15 and adj acen1L the lineof through-and-through stitches 16, I have provided a presser foot withan edge-lifting device 20 which in this instance is shown as having anintegral shank 21, the latter being formed with a groove 22 '1in itsupper face `forming a needle guide.

The shank 21 is seated in a groove formed in Y groove 22 which forms theneedlel guide is coincidentwith the movements of the needle. The plunger19 operates through the slot 9 of the presser foot and is locateddirectly in rear of the needle guide 22. The -lifting device 20 isformed with an upwardly and rearwardly inclined guiding surface 24, thelupper end 25 thereof being disposed at a point adjacent the end of'andin a plane above the point of needle penetration, that is, above theplane of the groove 22.

v The fabric is fed through c hine as shown in Figures 1 and 8 of thedrawings, theV fell`18 being disposed under theright hand arm 11 ofthepresser foot and the marginal edge portion thereof including thebinding 15 being bent upwardly into the groove 9 and thence downwardlythrough the offset `end 10 thereof andA finally passing under thepresser foot.

The material is fedrearwardly and during its passage the edge-liftingdevice 20 is engaged by the marginal portion of the binding and elevatedabove the path of the needle whereby the point of the needle will thesewing ma-v.

enter the fell directly under said marginal portion of the binding andadjacent the line of through-and-through stitches 16.

In order to guide the marginal portion of the fell, that is, thatportion including the binding 15, whereby the needle will penetrate thefell and thenceenter and emerge from the upper face of the base fabricwithout re-entering the fell, I have provided an edge guide which I haveindicated as a whole by the reference numeral 26. This edge guidecomprises a shelf 27 which extends parallel with the fabric guiding slot9 and is disposed in spaced relation to the lifting device 2() so as topermit the `fell to pass upwardlytherebetween and be supported by saidshelf. This shelf is provided with an overhanging lip 28 and avertically disposed connecting wall 29, the latter serving to crowd thebinding towards the lifting device 2() whereby the latter will withcertainty elevate the marginal edge of the binding for the purposepreviously described. The shelf is provided with a supporting shank 30arranged at substantially 45 relative to the plane of the shelf. Thisshank 30 is provided with an elongated hole 31, the elongation being inthe direction of its length and consequently parallel to the plane ofthe needle oscillation. An attaching screw 32 passes through a collar33, thence through the opening 31 and has threaded engagement with theleft arm 8 of the presser foot. By

means of the elongated hole 31, the guidema be adjusted to accommodatebindings ofv di erent widths without disturbingt its cooperativerelation with the edge-li ing devlce 20, the movement of the edge guideduring its adjustment being in a plane parallel to the plane of needleoscillation and consequently also in a-direction transverse tothe lineof feed. In order `to further retain the upturned fell in proper workingposition, I have rovided a second edge guide 34 which is disposed belowthe edge guide 26 and is secured through a slot 35 to the presser footby the same screw 32.

Thus the second guide 34 may be adjusted relative to the lifting deviceto provide Aa slot therebetween to freely receive a fell of a giventhickness, and the edge guide 26 may be adjusted independently of saidsecond 20 guide 34 to accommodate bindings of diferent widths, theoperative edge o the guide 34 engaging the -fell adjacent the bindingthereof.

It is of course to be understood that the details of structure. andarrangement of parts may be variously changed and modied withoutdeparting from the spirit and scope of my invention. y f

I claim:

l. In a presser foot for blind stitch felling machines, the combinationof a body p0rtion having a rearwardly extending slot for guiding apreviously bound fell, and

an edge liftingl device secured to said body portion andl disposedwithin the slot for raising the marginal portion of the binding of thefell.

2. In a presser foot for blind stitch felling machines, the combinationof a body portion having a rearwardly extending slot for guiding apreviously bound fell, andl an edge lifting device secured to said bodyportion and disposed within the slot for raising the marginal portion ofthe binding of the fell, said device having the upper fellengagingsurface extending upwardly and rearwardly.

3. In a presser foot for blind stitch felling machines, the combinationof a bod 'portion having a rearwardly extending s ot for guiding 'apreviously bound fell, and an edge lifting device secured to said bodyportion and disposed within the slot for raising the marginal portion ofthe binding of the fell, said device having a .shank detachably securedto said kbody portion of the foot and formed with a needle guidinggroove.

4. In a presser foot for blind stitch felling machines, the combinationof a body portion having a rearwardly extending slot for guid- .ing apreviously bound fell,'and an edge lifting device secured to said bodyportion and disposed within the slot for raising the marginal portion ofthe binding of the fell,

said device having a shank detachably secured to said body portion ofthe foot and formed with aA needle guiding groove, said device havingits upperpfell-engaging surface extending upwardly and rearwardly from apoint in advance of the needle guiding groove to a point adjacent therear end of and in a plane above said roove.

5. In a presser foot for blind stitch felling machines, the combinationof a body portion having a rearwardlyextending slot for guidin apreviously bound fell, and an edge :li in device secured to said bodyportion and dlsposedrwithin the slot for raising the marginal portion ofthe binding of the fell, and an eye guide for the fell secured to thebody portion and disposed. in spaced parallel relation to said liftingdevice.

' 6. In a blind stitch felling machine, the combination withy a presserfoot having a rearwardlylextendingslot for guiding a previously boundfell, of avdevi'ce secured to the foot at `one side of the slot foryraising the marginal portion of the binding of the fell, a needleoscillating in a plane at an angle to the major axis of said slot forpenetrating the fell underthe raised marginal portion of the binding,and an`edge guide for the fell secured to the presser foot at the otherside of said slot.

7. In a blind stitch felling machine, the combination with a presserfoot having a rearwardly extending slot for guidingI a previously boundfell, of a device secured to the foot at one side of the slot. forraising the marginal portion of the binding of the fell, a needleoscillating in a plane at an angle to the major' axis of said slot forpenetrating the fell under the raised marginal portion of the binding,and an edge guide for the fell secured to the presser foot aty the otherside of said slot, said guide being provided with a shelf for supportingthe fell above the base layer for entrance by the needle.

8. In a blind stitch felling machine, the combination rwith a presserfoot having a rearwardly extending slot for guiding a previouslyboundAfell, of a device secured to the foot at one side of the slot forraising the marginal portion of the binding of the fell, a 'needleoscillating in a lane at an angle to the major axis of said s ot forpenetrating the fell under the raised marginal portion of-the binding,and an` edge guide for the fell secured to the presser foot at the otherside of lsaid slot, said guide being mounted on the :foot foradjustments in a plane parallel to the plane of needle oscillation.

9. In a presser foot for blind stitch felling machines, the combinationof a body portion having a rearwardly extendingslot for guiding apreviouslylbound fell an edge- Il A 1,552,405

at one side of the slot for raising the marybinding and 'supported onsaid body orginal portion of the binding ofthe fell, an tion on theopposite side of the slot fiiom edge guide for the fell secured to thebody said lifting-dence. 10 portion of the foot on the other side of theIn testimony whereof I hereunto ax my l slot and adjustable towards andfrom said signature. y d' y liftin device, and a second guide for thefell or engaging the latteradjacent the u WALTER A. ADAMS.

